In the last few years we’ve really started enjoying getting off the beaten path. We got tired of the crowds, lines and general headache from traveling to the most touristy destinations. We had a loose plan to get to Italy by car from Bulgaria so doing an Eastern Europe road trip made a lot of sense. The area is beautiful in the summer, there is so much history and culture and it comes at a much more affordable price than the rest of Europe. Our Eastern Europe Itinerary is perfect for a 10 day trip.
We drove along the coastal line of Montenegro, up to the mountains of Bosnia then to the quaint beach towns of Croatia. But first…
A Few Useful Tips For Your Eastern Europe Itinerary
Currency
Croatia is part of the European Union but has not adopted the Euro. The local currency is called Kuna and is preferred in most places. We were still able to use Euro in the more touristy areas but some places are very particular about not accepting it so you usually have to ask. Be sure to take out some local currency when you get to Croatia as a lot of places only accept cash.
Montenegro and Bosnia are not in the EU and have their own currencies. However, we actually found it easier to pay with Euro in both countries than in Croatia. The pricing in restaurants and even grocery stores in Montenegro were all in Euro and we did not need to take out local currency at all.
The situation was similar in Bosnia, although our hotel requested us to pay in local cash. Some of the stores outside of the main touristy areas also did not accept Euro. Overall Bosnia was also much more cash-reliant as well.
WiFi And Sim Cards
WiFi is really important for us when we travel, especially since we work on the road. We always buy local SIM cards.
The nice thing about the European Union is that you can usually use your EU SIM card anywhere in the EU zone. So Croatia was easy for us.
However, in Montenegro and Bosnia we needed to get local SIM cards. Data in Montenegro was cheap -it only cost us 5 Euro for 100 gb of data. In Bosnia you can get a sim card for approximately 11 Euro for 15 gb of data that lasts 10 days. We found the WiFi in Bosnia to be very weak, almost unusable, even in hotels and restaurants.
Transportation
Transportation was something we were pleasantly surprised by. In Croatia the public buses run frequently and only costs 18 kuna to hop on. Ubers were cheaper than local taxis. Bosnian roads were easy to drive on so we drove to most places. On the days we decided not to drive and take taxis, we found they were very affordable. Montenegro had a bit of traffic that at times it reminded us of being back in New York. We suggest factoring some extra time when driving here to get to the different destinations.
Kotor, Montenegro
Montenegro is such a small country and one you don’t hear very often about. But we were completely blown away by its beauty. The contrast of ocean and mountains right next to each other in the bay of Kotor was straight out of a postcard: small towns carved into the skirts of the mountains, piercing blue waters contrast against the striking red rooftops of the buildings, and there is just so much green!
As soon as you drive into the bay, you start feeling that European summer vibe. Montenegro felt both like a country that was untouched by tourism, yet sill had all the infrastructure and convenience for you to enjoy an easy stay. There are lots of restaurants, cafes and cute little hotels, yet you don’t have to stand in line to get a dinner table or wrestle other tourists to buy a ticket for something.
Tivat
Tivat was our first stop on our Eastern Europe itinerary. It’s a small town near Kotor, built around a main port and marina. Finding affordable accommodation was easy and the town felt very low-key and relaxed. So we were surprised to see the fancy marina with expensive boutiques and rows of yachts docked there in the evening. As we walked through the white stoned promenade, we were impressed by the beautiful boats on one side and the classy hotels and shops next to palm trees on the other. It felt like we were in a movie set.
There is outdoor seating in most restaurants. At night we sat outside enjoying the sea breeze while drinking our espressos, really diving into that Mediterranean vibe we were looking for.
Kotor Old Town
Kotor is just a few minutes drive from Tivat and offers a totally different vibe, but charming in its own way. We were actually surprised by how big and beautifully preserved this old town area was. We felt like we were living in a fairy tale – thousand year old cathedrals, small winding streets and mysterious back alleys.
Wander around the quaint streets, sip coffee at the town square and explore the local shops and restaurants. There is also lots of live music which only adds to the already surreal experience of eating at a restaurant with scenic mountain views right behind it.
Although Kotor has become very popular in recent years, it still hasn’t been overrun by tourists. We highly recommend you add it to your Eastern Europe itinerary.
Kotor Fortress Hike
One of our favorite things to do in Kotor was the Fortress hike. It starts in the Old Town of Kotor and leads up the city walls to the fortress at the top of the mountain.
The entire hike takes around 4 hours and the entrance is 8 Euro per person. Don’t get discouraged by the length though – we only hiked the first hour of the trail and still got some pretty amazing views of the bay.
We suggest giving yourself plenty of time to get to the top and back as there are no lights on the trail once the sun goes down. Entrance is closed after 8pm.
At the top, you step through a window to get into the Fortress, just like stepping into a fairytale. All along the hike you get rewarded with stunning views of the Old Town, mountains and sea. Every step we took felt like we were in a painting.
Where To Stay In Kotor Bay
Depending on the vibe you’re looking for, you can stay either in Kotor or Tivat and easily visit both towns. Keep in mind that there are no nice beaches in Kotor as there are a lot of boats in the marina. Tivat has some beaches (European-style concrete ones :)) but the water was not as crystal clear as in other areas in the bay. You might need to drive a little further from the marina areas to find clear beaches.
- Regent Porto Montenegro. Possibly the most beautiful hotel in the area. Enjoy a glass of wine in the gorgeously decorated pool area right by the marina while listening to live music. Doesn’t get better than that.
- Hotel Pine Tivat. A smaller hotel with character that offers beautiful bay views at an affordable price.
- Apartment Markovic. Scenic views from your terrace, modern facilities and a pool, the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring.
- Historic Boutique Hotel Cattaro. On the pricier side but completely worth the stay. This hotel has a historic feel with all the modern facilities. Grand lobbies, free breakfast included and right on the doorstep of of Old Town.
- Apartments Residence Portofino. Enjoy some of the most incredible views of Bay of Kotor right from your private pool.
- Hotel Vardar. Located right in the Old Town of Kotor, this hotel has everything you need with the best location.
Other Areas To Visit In The Coast Of Montenegro
There a couple more stops you could add to your Montenegro itinerary if you have the time. We heard Budva is nice, although more of a party town with lots clubs and nightlife.
Sveti Stefan is another small coastal town with a beautiful beach and one of the most luxurious hotels in the area. We did not have enough time to visit those areas though, so we could not give you any opinion on them. But they are typically quite popular for similar Eastern Europe itineraries.
Mostar, Bosnia And Herzegovina
Bosnia and Herzegovina was not originally on our itinerary, but what’s best about doing a road trip is the freedom to add stops whenever you want. We didn’t really have time to explore the country so we just wanted to make one stop – the famous Mostar village.
We were planning to drive to Dubrovnik from Kotor area and Mostar was somewhat on the way so we included it in our itinerary.
Useful Travel Tips For Bosnia And Herzegovina
There are a few things you have to keep in mind when visiting Bosnia and plan for. For the most part we were able to pay in Euro almost anywhere, but we did encounter some issues here and there. No complaints there – of course you need to carry local currency in any country you visit. You could just forget about it as you are traveling around Europe so be prepared.
One big issue we had is that most places do not accept credit cards at all. Most restaurants in the old town of Mostar say they accept credit cards but when you try to pay, somehow their machine is always “broken”. Make sure you have enough cash.
We had a similar issue with WiFi. Most places say they have it but either they don’t really, or if they do, it’s incredibly slow. Buying a local SIM card is usually a great idea but it did not make sense for us as we were only in the country for a couple of days. So essentially, we did not have internet while in Bosnia, it was incredibly hard to come by.
Mostar Old Town
The old bridge in Mostar is a stunning spot, situated right in the middle of a picturesque little village, with the deep turquoise waters of the Neretva river running through. It’s buzzing with people in the warm summer evenings, with the shimmering lights of nearby mosques reflecting in the river. Charming little shops sell colorful knick knacks and delicious Turkish lokum and street music fills the air.
The Old Town felt like stepping into a time capsule of the Ottoman empire. The restaurants, the food, the shops and architecture have a very distinct Turkish influence. This town has everything you need to enjoy a pleasant escape as you walk through the old town and enjoy the views from the bridge.
Or you can watch locals jump off the top of the bridge. We learned that originally local men used to do it to impress the women in the village that would sun-bake by the river. But nowadays it’s more about busking some money from tourists.
We must admit that the Old Town was full of tourists, each day around lunch time there were bus loads of people visiting the town from their respective tour groups. Usually we don’t like crowded places, but the beautiful architecture of the city made up for it. We were also surprised by the heavy Turkish influence in the town, and if you’re there a Bosnian coffee is a must try along with their Turkish delight.
Activities In Old Town
In such a small town there was so much to do. You can take a boat ride or swim in the river, visit different museums to learn about the rich history and culture of Bosnia and Herzegovina, as well as the dark past with the Yugoslavia war that only happened between 1992 – 1995. We also learned that after the war countries from all over donated to Bosnia and Herzegovina to help rebuild. If you look closely at the tour buses that surround the Old Town you’ll see the Japanese flag on them, as an example.
Day Trips From Mostar
There are also plenty of day trips you can do in the surrounding towns like Pocitelj fortress, or the Pliva waterfall and the 2 hour hike to the famous Cross of Mostar. On the hike you’ll see huts where old snipers would be set up. According to tour guides there are still land mines so it’s important to stay on the path. Whether that’s really true or not, wasn’t something we wanted to find out on our own.
Where To Stay In Mostar
You won’t find luxury resorts here. It’s mostly small family inns and guest houses. Here are a few places we recommend for staying in Mostar:
- Villa Ana – If you’re looking for a high end escape on a holiday this is the place. Outdoor pool, river views, bicycle and car rental right at the tip of your fingers, there’s nothing like it.
- Hotel Villa Meydan – Located in the old town, this hotel boasts a modern design and incredibly budget-friendly prices.
- Hotel-Restaurant Kriva Cuprija – This hotel is the perfect modern escape from the rustic feel of the town. Enjoy the exceptional restaurant food and views of the entire city.
- Shangri La Mansion – This has a more homey feel, with an epic rooftop terrace that overlooks the town but still with a reasonable price tag.
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Next stop on our Eastern Europe road trip itinerary was one of the most famous towns in the area. Dubrovnik has been one of the most visited cities in the Adriatic for years. But in recent years it gained even more popularity after the TV show Game Of Thrones was filmed here. This was definitely the most touristy stop on our Eastern Europe itinerary.
Visiting in the height of summer didn’t help. But all in all we still loved Dubrovnik despite the crowds. The accessibility of transportation, the welcoming locals, the awe-inspiring mountains and the wealth of activities available all made our stay really fun. It may not be the most relaxing stop on your itinerary, but Dubrovnik is a must-see while in Croatia.
Old Town
If you, like us, love being teleported into the past, you would love the old town of Dubrovnik. As you’re approaching Vrata od Buze to enter the town, you can only stare at the 800-year old city walls with your mouth open. They are not only massively impressive, but also extremely well preserved.
Entering through the gates is like stepping into the middle ages, and wandering around these medieval streets feels like an immersive experience. You can really feel history come alive on every corner, as if you left the modern world for a little bit. You find yourself wondering how people used to live here back in the day – how they popped their windows open to gossip with their neighbors, how they gathered in the city square on important occasions or how they ran around the streets in panic when the city was being attacked by enemies.
The only thing that takes away from that experience a little bit is the amount of tourists. But that’s inevitable in a place like Dubrovnik. We recommend you walk the streets of the old town early in the morning if you want to really feel the authenticity of this place.
Dubrovnik Old Town Wall
Walking the old town city walls was one of the most interesting experiences for us and we highly recommend it. You get to see the city from above and see first hand how impressive the walls are. They have never been breached by a hostile army!
Ticket price is a little steep though at 200 HRK or around 30 Euro per person. The price for children is 50 HKR and under the age of 7 they can enter for free.
The entrance of the city walls is by the main Pile gate. The walls are open from 8am until 7:30pm in the summer.
A few tips on visiting the walls:
- Try to get there early as it gets very hot during the day and there is very little shade
- At peak hours it gets so crowded that it is almost impossible to walk
- You can only walk in one direction on the wall (counter-clockwise if you’re looking at the city in from Pile gate)
Dubrovnik Cable Car Sunset
Another way to get a stunning perspective of Dubrovnik is to take a cable car ride to the top of the nearby mountain and back. You can get on the car just outside the old town near Buze gate and ride to the top and back. Or you can take a taxi to the top of the mountain and just ride the car back down to the old town.
We took the second option as we wanted to have as much time as we needed at the top. You could also drive there yourself if you have a car but we don’t recommend it. The road to the top of the mountain is a single lane for two-way traffic so it can be quite dangerous if you don’t know it well.
At the top we marveled at the views and found a nice spot on the rocks to watch the sunset. Given how busy the old town of Dubrovnik was, we were quite surprised that this lookout was not that crowded.
Ticket price for the cable car is 90 HRK one way or 170 HRK (about 25 Euro) roundtrip.
Where To Stay In Dubrovnik
Since we had a car we stayed a little bit outside of Dubrovnik (in a town called Kupari) and took the bus or Uber to go to the old town. Parking near the old town in Dubrovnik is hard to come by and costs around 70 Kuna per hour (about 10 Euro).
Of course we recommend staying in the old town if you want to fully immerse yourself in the experience. But accommodation there can get very expensive in the high season and especially if you don’t book in advance. The other downside is that the houses in the old town can be quite small and dark with little outdoor space. In the nearby villages you can get a backyard and a lot more quiet, away from all the tourists in Dubrovnik.
Here are the top places we recommend staying while on your visit
- Apartments Peppino – Old Town – Right in the Old Town, very a good price, the town views are a great way to experience this unique town and feel like you are in Game of Thrones
- Rixos Libertas – for the couples that are looking to spoil themselves a little. Rixos is a big hotel with a beautiful infinity pool that gives you a different perspective of your Dubrovnik vacation
- Apartments Sv.Jakov. Scenic views from your terrace to the old town, with a short walk to the town and the beach, and a lovely host, you can’t go wrong here.
- K-apartments. for the more affordable version of your Dubrovnik experience. you will enjoy the beautiful terrace, the restaurants close by and even the cinema if you have a free night.
Sibenik, Croatia
The next stop on our Eastern Europe itinerary was Sibenik, Croatia. It’s further up north and must less touristy than Dubrovnik. Although there were still tourists they were predominantly from the surrounding countries. Sibenik can almost pass as a small Italian town.
Even though Sibenik is a smaller and less known destination, we actually enjoyed it the most from all the places we visited on this roadtrip! Sibenik was the perfect mix of a small quaint beach town but with all the offerings of a big city, including nice restaurants & bars, to a wealth scenic sights and a buzzing nightlife. It has all the charming characteristics of well-known coastal towns in the area like Dubrovnik or Hvar, minus the crowds of tourists and inflated prices.
Old Town Sibenik
Sibenik’s old town is a smaller condensed version of Dubrovnik’s old town, but with just as much charm, if not more. It’s right by the water which means you can stroll through town, go watch the yachts sail by and enjoy some ice cream on the boardwalk.
Our favorite place to hang out was the big square right by the St. James Cathedral. There are so many charming restaurants around here, cute little shops, ice cream stalls and lots of places to sit around and just people-watch.
We weren’t surprised when we found out some scenes from Game of Thrones were also filmed here. Sibenik is just as nice if not nicer than Dubrovnik.
Beach Days
On the days we just wanted to enjoy the area, we would head down to Banj Beach. In true European style it was a pebble beach, luke warm water and the best views to marvel at. We hadn’t been to a nicer beach while in Croatia. It reminded us of our time in the Amalfi Coast.
Where To Stay In Sibenik
We strongly suggest booking accommodation in advance. We decided to book on the day of arrival and found that most places were already booked out. There are very few small hotels here and mostly apartment rentals and AirBnB (sign up here to get $35 on your first booking).
Here are a few places we recommend for your stay in Sibenik:
- Luxury Apartment with Heating Pool – The name says it all, this 5 star accommodation will have you never wanting to leave the premise.
- Top City Centre Apartments – Right by Sibenik’s Old Town this apartment style accommodation is the best location for exploring the Old Town and taking a relaxing afternoon by the beach all steps from this place.
- Swan City Room – Only 200m from Old Town this place has everything you need to enjoy a relaxing stay. You can rent their bicycles and explore, or order room service and relax in the air conditioning.
- Studio Old Town – If you want to experience what it’s like to live in the Old Town, this is the place to do it. With its stone walls, tranquil garden and accessibility to all the attractions you won’t find a better location.
We actually loved Sibenik so much that we stayed here around 10 days! It’s the longest we stayed anywhere on our entire Eastern Europe itinerary and we really enjoyed the slow but still fun vibe of this town. You could easily explore the town in 2-3 days though.
Continuing On To Italy
After we stayed in Sibenik for so long, we were ready to move on to the next country! Since we ran out of time a little bit, we decided to skip Slovenia. We were originally planning to make a few stops there but it would not have left us enough time in Italy. So we just drove through Slovenia and continued on to our next stop – Venice!
We spent a month in Italy and it was also an unforgettable journey, but we will leave it for another time!
Hope you enjoyed all our recommendations for Eastern Europe. We do hope we can go back soon and explore all the places we didn’t have enough time for.
